Friday, June 28, 2024

audio -- DisplayPort

This a post for people who have a DisplayPort connection with functional video, but non-functioning audio from a connected monitor. The situation can be hardware or configuration, or a blend.

short overview

DisplayPort is HDMI quality video, a significant step-up from VGA, but without an audio channel. The output jack is a special shape, so we need an inexpensive adapter cable DisplayPort <--> HDMI. We then connect the HDMI end to any monitor's HDMI port.

DisplayPort does not have an audio channel. So we have to run sound separately using a 3.5mm output cable to connect sound to our monitor. However, even with a separate 3.5mm audio cable plugged in, users can experience the same "no audio" problems they do with an HDMI cable.

I've done other posts on HDMI cable ELD handshake for HDMI audio, and the steps are the same with DisplayPort. I'm repeating the steps here in a dedicated DisplayPort post, since it might be easier to Google search for those suffering through DisplayPort configuration.


helpful commands

Before anything else, a few helpful commands to hopefully avoid rebooting once configured. PulseAudio is killed and restarted with...

$ pulseaudio -k or --kill
$ pulseaudio -D

ALSA usually will reread alsa.conf and restart without a reboot:

# systemctl restart alsa-restore.service

most likely explanation - monitor limitation

Some monitors can't detect true HDMI apart from DisplayPort, since the cable connection is HDMI on the monitor end. The monitor assumes audio is incoming via the HDMI cable per usual. These types of monitors disable the 3.5mm audio input to prevent duplication. There's no way to achieve monitor sound in this circumstance. Users must test their computer's 3.5mm audio output with a set of speakers.

However, the scenario above is horribly underdocumented. Many people go crazy attempting to make the monitor produce sound from the connected 3.5mm input. Even more deceptively, these monitors usually have no 3.5mm audio problems as long as the video input is a VGA cable.

less likely -- ELD problems

Once we obtain ELD-related numbers, my easiest solution for ensuring ELD handshake is via /usr/share/alsa/alsa.conf customization. Updates to ALSA will overwrite our customization, but we can always repeat the steps if we encounter audio problems again.

I like info on how the computer is naming cards and so on, in case I have a long troubleshoot, but the most important step is using grep to verify ELD. Skip to that step below if desired.

Verify DisplayPort is connected to the HDMI port on the video monitor and receiving video. Next, how is the system ordering its analog PCH chip and HDMI digital chip? Simplest check:

$ cat /proc/asound/modules
0 snd_hda_intel
1 snd_hda_intel

... but in this case, we need more. We're only able to tell both chip 0 and 1 were manufactured by intel. So we...

$ cat /proc/asound/cards
0 [HDMI ]: HDA-Intel - HDA Intel HDMI
HDA Intel HDMI at 0xf7c32000 irq 39
1 [PCH ]: HDA-Intel - HDA Intel PCH
HDA Intel PCH at 0xf7c30000 irq 40

...ok the digital card is card 0 and the analog is card 1.

But we still don't which device on the card has handshaked. For that, aplay goes deeper and gives each device number on the cards.

$ aplay -l
**** List of PLAYBACK Hardware Devices ****
card 0: HDMI [HDA Intel HDMI], device 3: HDMI 0 [E622VLE]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: HDMI [HDA Intel HDMI], device 7: HDMI 1 [HDMI 1]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: HDMI [HDA Intel HDMI], device 8: HDMI 2 [HDMI 2]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 1: PCH [HDA Intel PCH], device 0: ALC3220 Analog [ALC3220 Analog]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0

But I prefer to verify ELD is handshaking with device 3.

$ grep eld_valid /proc/asound/card0/eld*
/proc/asound/card0/eld#0.0:eld_valid 0
/proc/asound/card0/eld#0.1:eld_valid 0
/proc/asound/card0/eld#0.2:eld_valid 0
/proc/asound/card0/eld#0.3:eld_valid 1
/proc/asound/card0/eld#0.4:eld_valid 0
/proc/asound/card0/eld#0.5:eld_valid 0

With hw 0,3 confirmed, I carve this in stone in my /usr/share/alsa/alsa.conf file.

# nano /usr/share/alsa/alsa.conf
defaults.pcm.subdevice 3 # -1 is default

step 2 - restart and test

The easiest for me is to reboot, but others may want to restart alsa. Am I getting sound? If so, then I should also be able to normally test the connection this way.

$ aplay -D plughw:0,3 /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav

There are other sounds, I just use Front_Center out of habit I suppose

Monday, June 10, 2024

Inexpensive appliances

GE Hotpoint RGB526DETBB black oven

2013 manf -- approx $600 :: 2024 replace -- $1,200

Two similar models exist; RGB526 and JGBS30. It appears these were first manufactured in 2013, and were likely c. $600. In 2024 dollars, that's about $800. However, to *replace* the oven in 2024, with a similar feature stove/oven, would run $1,100 easily. Probably more. It's worthy of maintaining the original, if possible.

quirks

Important maintenance and repair documents are printed on paper and placed in an envelope attached to rear of appliance. This includes wiring diagram for igniter

This site has spec and user manual PDF's.


Forty-six inches high and not self-cleaning. The igniter is the rectangular Norton igniter. The thermostat must not touch the oven wall. Note this after cleaning. Also any flame adjustments.

gas connection $150

Expensive because best accomplished by a plumber to avoid house fire. Current code requires that the flex hose be orange, like the old LP lines.

cleaning

If a person has time, the easiest way is baking soda, overnight wait and remove with a spatula. Video:

baking soda and vinegar (8:28) Mr Gizmo, 2021. spray bottle for white vinegar (possibly dilute), non-scratch spatula, non-scratch rags, rubber gloves, baking soda paste. Overnight wait, follow-on with vinegar spray (activate and remove residue), wipe down with non-scratch rags.

Located here:

Also note that the oven door is removeable (more easily than it can be re-attached) to help the cleaning.

This post contains some additional tips and products.

exhausting the fumes

Electrolux/Frigidaire FFTR1814LW4
18 cu ft, top freezer


Links: manf's page :: commercial page w/specs :: parts site

From the sticker ("11/10") these probably were 2011 or 2010 builds. Similar units in 2024 are $700-ish.

quirks

lower door handle breaks, $70. Need to reinforce with fiberglass or some other -- don't throw away original.